Haider Ackerman’s “Next Thing”
I saw Haider’s show in Paris in 2002. It was one of my first defiles, and yes, his use of color was surprising and extraordinary. Paris fashion shows are very much different in the art direction and mood of their shows and Haider’s conceptually minimal and sophisticated gestures were not overlooked.
I’ve finally come around to his designs with this collection. The layering, low cuts, samurai meets kimono belting, draping has bloomed to a complexity in this collection that allows a woman to feel and express strength and desire all at once. These looks give a smart playfulness on so many levels. The hard edge of New Yorker designs, romantic Turkish patterning, Japanese streetwear mixing and matching is styled so cleverly unlike a lot of collections we see today with more defined themes or influences. He opens up a new definition of sexiness that is more flexible and complex. There’s a lot to take in here. Ricardo Tisci for Givenchy may have some influence on other designers right now, and I can feel a bit of his sheer otherworldliness as well.
Congrats Haider. Karl, you really spotted it. I can see how this collection could translate to Chanel’s future someday.